"Use Typographer's Quotes" is off by default. Is this a cruel joke?
And this setting seems to automatically reset to "off" arbitrarily. I cannot count how many times I have had to toggle it back on.
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Bastian S. commented
That happens because this is a document preference and an application preference.
You have to make this setting with all documents closed (newly created documents will have it enabled then) but in your old documents it will still be turned off.So... You have to check it every time you open a document and yes it is a horrible design choice of the preferences in general.
PDF on what is a document setting can be downloaded here with a free membership (this is no ad for ind. secrets.. feel free to google another source)
https://indesignsecrets.com/visual-guide-indesign-preferences.php